Patterns & Muslins

I have now made the patterns for my collection! To do this, I took basic pattern blocks and manipulated them to create flat patterns that will go on to create the garments.

After drafting a first pattern, I would then make a muslin. Muslins are rough copies of the garments that are made to the exact design and proportions, out of fabrics that hold a similar weight to the final product. With muslins made, I could then modify the original pattern, repeating this process until everything is perfect.

I have been making about an outfit a week lately. Each outfit requires two to three muslins, and that alone often needed more supportive muslins to get the final ones. Needless to say, things have been busy.

Finalizing the Collection

Today, I finalized my collection! I have gone through 25 sketches, edited them, and  selected a final five that I will produce my collection with.

I have drafted up technicals – the black and white flat drawings on Illustrator. These drawings show pattern drafters/sewers how the outfit’s pattern will be made and sewn. It includes all the details to the correct proportions.

I can really see it coming together!

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The Fabric

I’ve recently begun searching for fabrics that reflect the colors, textures and movement of the island. I have found a number of fabrics that are soft and have drape, mimicking the movement of the sand and grasses. Materials with more structure have enabled me to contrast that fluidity with the firmness of the Victorian era, and elements of the island.

The highlight of this search was perhaps finding a fabric that looks perfectly like the sand I remember. I have also really enjoyed creating my own fabrics by digitally printing my photos of Sable Island onto the material. This has helped me bring literal representations of the island into the collection.

I have bought the majority of my fabrics from Lida Baday’s The Fabric Room in Toronto. I love the quality and beauty of the fabrics she brings in from Europe. I also took an amazing trip to New York where I picked up additional fabrics from Mood, and trims from M&J Trimming.

As I pick out fabrics, the collection is taking on an even stronger form…

the coat

inspiration: the grass

the dress

inspiration: the landscape

the skirt

inspiration: the grasses

the jacket

inspiration: waves and sand

the t-shirt

inspiration: the wild ponies

the skirt

inspiration: the sand

The first outfit will be made of a blue, black and white printed linen that looks like woven tweed. It reminds me of the movement of the water on a foggy day on the island. The black reflects both Victorian and modern women, both of whom traditionally wear the colour.

The top for the second outfit will be made of that fantastic sand-like material. For the skirt, I altered and printed an image of Sable Island grass onto a fabric.   

In the third outfit, I introduce a tan and green woven mixed linen coat, that reflects the texture of the grass and holds a slightly stiffer shape. This coat will sit over a horse printed microfiber dress that has quite a lot of drape. The combination of the structured coat and flowing dress illustrates the juxtaposition of the textures and movement that come from the wind, the dunes, the grasses, the waves and the manes.

In the fourth outfit, I return to the combination of grass and sand. The grass fabric is transformed into a blouse, while the sand fabric is used for a long skirt.

In the fifth and final outfit, I am going to use a black and white horse photo on a grey shirt that will be paired with navy linen pants. I am going to return to darker colours in this outfit to represent that the woman is returning to the city, but bringing the freedom and spirit of the island with her.